Bari, the capital of Puglia, is a city of light, the sea, and harmonious contrasts. On one side lies the vibrant, modern soul of the 19th-century Murat district; on the other, the ancient heart of “Bari Vecchia” (Old Bari), a labyrinth of alleys where time seems to have stood still.
Part 1: History, Tourism, and Local Culture
A History of the Sea and Faith
Bari’s history has always been deeply tied to its strategic position on the Adriatic Sea, which turned it into a crucial crossroads between West and East. Originally an ancient Peucetian center, then a flourishing Roman municipality, the city lived through Byzantine, Norman, and Swabian rules, each leaving an indelible mark.
The historical turning point occurred in 1087, when 62 local sailors stolen the relics of Saint Nicholas from Myra (in modern-day Turkey) and brought them to Bari. From that moment on, the city became one of Christendom’s main centers and a global pilgrimage site. The Basilica of Saint Nicholas, a masterpiece of Apulian-Romanesque architecture, still houses the Saint’s relics today and stands as a rare example of a place of worship shared by both Catholics and Orthodox Christians. Nearby, the majestic Swabian Castle, fortified by Frederick II, has stood guard over the entrance to the old town for centuries.
Tourism: The Charm of Authenticity
In recent years, Bari has experienced a true tourism renaissance, transforming from a mere transit city into a must-visit destination. The perfect starting point is Bari Vecchia. Walking through its courtyards, you will inevitably run into the famous Orecchiette Street (Via Arco Basso), where local grandmothers set up wooden tables outside to make fresh pasta completely by hand—a display of craftsmanship that enchants travelers from all over the world.
Leaving the ancient borough, you find yourself on the Nazario Sauro Promenade, one of the longest and most monumental seafronts in Italy, perfect for a sunset walk filled with the scent of sea salt. For those seeking shopping and 19th-century elegance, Corso Cavour and Via Sparano offer high-fashion boutiques and stunning Liberty-style architecture, such as the monumental Petruzzelli Theatre, the beating heart of Bari’s cultural scene.
Bari Underground: The City Beneath the City
Beyond its sunlit beauties, Bari hides an archaeological treasure beneath its streets. A guided tour called Bari Sotterranea (Bari Underground) allows visitors to descend below the current street level to discover the remains of the Roman, Byzantine, and medieval city. Underneath the Swabian Castle and the Cathedral of San Sabino, you can admire ancient early-Christian mosaics, Byzantine dwellings, and the very paved streets that locals walked on more than a thousand years ago.
The Festival of Saint Nicholas: May Magic
If there is a time of year when Bari’s soul reveals itself in all its intensity, it is between May 7th and 9th for the Feast of Saint Nicholas. The city comes to a halt to celebrate its patron saint with an impressive historical reenactment.
- The Historical Parade: The largest of its kind in Europe, it reenacts the arrival of the sailors in 1087 with figures in period costumes, flag-wavers, and horses.
- The Sea Procession: The following day, the statue of the Saint is carried out to sea on a boat, surrounded by hundreds of boats belonging to the faithful, while the Frecce Tricolori (the Italian Air Force acrobatics team) fly over the promenade.
Part 2: Gastronomy and Iconic Street Food
Bari’s cuisine is the ultimate celebration of the Mediterranean diet: simple ingredients, excellent raw materials, and bold flavors tied to both the land and the sea. For locals, food is not just nourishment; it is a social ritual.
The Great Classics
- Orecchiette con le cime di rapa: The pasta symbol of Puglia finds its highest expression in Bari. The orecchiette (“little ears”), strictly handmade by dragging the thumb over the dough, are cooked in the same water as the turnip greens to absorb maximum flavor. The secret lies in the dressing: a generous sauté of extra virgin olive oil, garlic, chili flakes, and salted anchovies that melt into the hot oil, creating a unique savory depth.
- Riso, Patate e Cozze (La Tiella): This dish takes its name from the tiella, the circular earthenware baking pan in which it is cooked. It is a masterpiece of balance: raw layers of sliced potatoes, rice, cherry tomatoes, onions, and fresh mussels (opened on the half-shell, keeping their natural liquid to flavor the entire dish) are arranged together. The final touch is a shower of grated pecorino cheese before baking until a crispy, gratin crust forms.
The Street Food
- La Focaccia Barese: In Bari, focaccia is a religion and is eaten at any time of day. The dough often includes mashed boiled potato, making it incredibly soft on the inside, while baking it in heavily oiled iron pans creates a dark, ultra-crispy base and rim. It is topped by crushing fresh cherry tomatoes by hand into the dough, along with local black olives and oregano.
- Sgagliozze and Popizze: Walking through the alleys of the old town, the smell of frying will lead you to the large vats of local women cooking on the street. Sgagliozze are fried polenta rectangles served piping hot with a heavy dusting of salt. Popizze (or pettole) are fried balls of raised yeast dough—the ultimate winter street food.
- The Fried Panzerotto: In Bari, a panzerotto must be fried. The timeless classic version features a simple but perfect filling: mozzarella and tomato with a pinch of pepper. It is eaten strictly boiling hot, leaning forward to avoid getting melted cheese and tomato on your clothes.
The Raw Seafood Ritual and Peroni Beer
The weekend aperitivo has one absolute protagonist: il crudo di mare (raw seafood). Consuming it at the old pier market (called “N-dërrë a la lanz”) is an anthropological experience. You will see local fishermen “curling” octopuses by slapping them against the rocks to make them tender. The perfect match for this ritual? A Peroni beer, strictly a 66cl bottle, and “compulsorily” ice-cold. Peroni has been a staple of the city’s identity since its local brewery opened in 1924.
Part 3: The Traditional Recipe for Focaccia Barese
To make true focaccia barese at home, you need a metal baking pan (ideally black iron or heavy aluminum) and a generous amount of olive oil.
Ingredients
| For the dough | For the topping |
| 250 g re-milled durum wheat semolina (semola rimacinata) | 15-20 cherry tomatoes |
| 250 g 0-type flour (or all-purpose) | Extra virgin olive oil (abundant) |
| 1 small potato (approx. 100g), boiled and mashed | Black olives (preferably Barese or Termite di Bitonto variety) |
| 350 ml lukewarm water | Dried oregano |
| 4 g active dry yeast (or 10g fresh yeast) | Fine salt and coarse salt |
| 10 g fine salt |